There are ‘male skincare’ campaigns with slogans like “Real men take care of their skin!” … Almost as if it is universally thought that men are Neanderthals that insist on looking as rough and aged as possible to maintain their masculinity. The fact is, due to the sexual revolutions over the last thirty years, men from all walks of life and orientations want to maintain smooth, firm, even skin for as long as possible. It is no longer enough to build up muscle and endurance yet look like you fell asleep on a chenille bedspread! Treatments for severe skin problems such as acne, chronic dermatitis, and scarring are constantly sought after but represent about 10% of clientele. The rest could simply want their face and body skin to match the fitness hours spent in the gym. The women’s lib movement of the 60s’ helped bring this about to a large degree. Women grew weary of constantly having to look like a ‘Barbie Doll’, whilst the men just had to wave a wad of cash, sport a huge gut with skin that looked like the other side of the moon. Also, there is the automatic ‘he’s older’ category men were put in when in public, despite the rippling muscles or six packs hidden under clothes. In the darker-skinned population pseudofolliculitis (razor bumps) is common. However, men of other ethnicities can suffer from it. Keeping excess cuticle barrier off the epidermis is the first step to removing and controlling it. African American skin has many pluses physiologically, keeping in mind that all ethnic characteristics were bequeathed to the human race to enable them to survive in whatever area of the planet had as its environmental surrounding, i.e. intense direct sunlight on the equatorial belt surrounding the African continent, copious melanocytes ON the epidermis (and even down into the pores) provides a highly reflective surface that bounces harmful radiation away from the skin. Tightly curled hair with a flat oval denier became brain saving air conditioning as sudoriferous secretion was caught up in the curls, allowing slow, cooling evaporation in the air. Very rapid cell proliferation is another plus to darker skin (one of the reasons age does not become apparent until up in the late 60s and 70s in many cases). But the downside is the faster rhythm of proliferation also exacerbates fast healing often overblowing the site of injury resulting in keloid scars. In the case of razor bumps, keeping the excess cuticle down not only removes the grey looking ‘ashys’ thus keeping the skin bright and more even in tone, but removes dead cells that catch onto flat curly beard hair and is re-directed down into the skin becoming a tiny cyst-like bump. The pH of deeper toned skin should be maintained on the low end of the scale. Fermented citrus oils formulated with water-into-oil protein cremès are excellent for this. Most men, outside of the very young androgynous or trans-fluid types do not mind a few lines around the eyes, or nasal labial area, but do not want deep-etched or ripple-like glycated surfaces. Treatments that remove the redundant cuticle that lead to this plus restoring homeostasis to intercellular fluids and guard against TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) will slow this down and home maintenance, religiously adhered to, will keep the creeping aged look off their face. Men can become the best clients! Men who have a skin revision treatment and see even the slightest changes are convinced and will not only book for several more, but will become almost fanatically compliant when it comes to their home care. I have gone into my male client’s bathrooms at cocktail parties back when I was in private practice and sneaked a peek into their cabinet. Sure enough, there were their regimens all lined up according to order of usage: Deep Pore cleanser, Herb & Mineral Mist, Pro Amino crème etc. Men do not like complicated home regimens, so it is important to keep it as simple as possible from the outset, giving them what they need. They can be introduced to other products as they progress through the treatment protocols, ensuring that they fully understand what they have been using. Why? Educating the male on the chemistry and histology of skin will not fall upon deaf ears. Most men are receptive to the technical side of things if it is logical and not full of buzz words and fluff. Men do not like complicated home regimens, so it is important to keep it as simple as possible from the outset, giving them what they need. BEAUTIFY ISSUE 24 – 2021 | | 6 Using technical terminology that gives products a credible, serious feeling about male skin builds trust, and is why DMK Skin Technicians are the “go-to” expert for skincare categories. As a teenager, I suffered from severe acne vulgaris, so I understand the agony and self-deprecation of this hormonally induced nightmare. This rich potential of clients is automatic, long-lived revenue once the first lot start going on social media with their often-miraculous results! DMK UK sponsored an Acne Summit in London a few years ago at the prestigious Royal Society of Medicine. We had several stunning case studies showing up live, but those kids had mobile phones going a fortnight before and we arrived on the lecture day at an over-packed house. Tears were copious as a teen and after the teen got up to tell their compelling personal stories including being pulled back from the brink of suicide, exacerbated by the popular but insidious ‘acne drug’ that has messed up so many skins and lives. Stuart Milk, whom many of you has met, was in London at the time for a series of meetings with members of Parliament. He dropped by for what he said was a moment. Later he told me that if someone said to him, he would sit for three hours on the edge of his seat at an acne lecture, he would have told them they were bonkers! Over the years DMK Australia and New Zealand have spawned some excellent ‘Acne Divas’, starting when Debbie Dickson appeared on local television news with real life before and after acne cases that stunned the viewers. The phone at her clinic rang constantly for months. People forgot the other guest on the show, a sceptical dermatologist who questioned the efficacy and “high cost” of DMK treatments and the crazy American scientist behind it! He later emailed me with an apology. Northern Ireland Jenna Mulholland became a superstar for acne, and she was originally trained in Melbourne. Despite the category and age of the male, acne leaches away one’s self-worth, regardless of handsome features. It makes one feel less than and dirty. They become isolated. I am very familiar, even to this day at 78, with this terrible phenomena. You do change a life by changing a skin. ABOUT DANNÉ MONTAGUE-KING Botanical pharmacologist, journalist, and international lecturer Danné Montague-King is the innovator and founder of a worldwide movement known as Skin Revision. As far back as the early 1960’s, this visionary and pioneer became aware that something was missing from the popular approaches to caring for skin.